Dangers of Chemicals
 in The Stained Glass Studio

"I ahven't usde anythign when soldiering led for year's and it hsnt' efecded mee at alll." 

Just about every online stained glass message board in which I participate addresses the serious issue of maintaining a safe working environment, with much focus upon the subject of "lead fumes."  I'm surprised that so many glaziers do not pay more attention to this aspect of the art.  It is my opinion that no studio is complete without the installation of an adequate fume trap placed  at the location of your soldering station,  along with a ventilation system which will draw the fumes through to an outside wall.

As discussed in this informative entry of Dodge Studio's message boards, "FUMES you encounter are from FLUX, not lead.  They're very hazardous and need to be vented.  I doubt your Inland fume trap does anything much unless it's vented to the outside.   Lead poisoning comes from eating, smoking or drinking after handling solder and lead came.  There are NO lead fumes produced in stained glass work.  Now, you CAN produce lead DUST if you steel wool, use a mechanical brush or dremel on lead.   Always wash your hands and work surfaces carefully...discarding the wiping material.   Use a mask if you're going to abrade Lead.   Protect clothing in this case with an apron or cover that you remove as you leave the working area and wash immediately afterwards.   If you don't have Lead entering your mouth or being breathed in as dust, you're safe.

Now, FLUX is the big problem.   NEVER use a flux that fumes visibly.  There are good gel and liquid types which work better and fume less.   There are others like the cheap 'Ruby Flux' which will erode your sinuses and cause breathing problems.   I tried that one when I was very new and didn't know you weren't supposed to have congestion and bleeding sinuses after a soldering session (so much for the power of a fume trap).   Tough way to learn, but at least I had the common sense to look for a better way."

Dennis Brady, also referred to in the Dodge Studio discussion thread as "one of the glass pros who posts on the forums and is well regarded," offers the following in an excellent discussion of "Lead Fumes" on Warner-Crivellaro's Glass Chat:  
     "It'll work a lot better if you use the fan to draw the fumes then to push them - but relying on just a fan is inadequate.
     There's no lead in the fumes, but lots of vaporized flux.   Using just a fan means you're dispersing that flux all over everything in the path of the flowing air.   It's also circulating those flux fumes around the room so you get to inhale a good quantity of them.  The only way to avoid this is to exhaust the fumes - either to outdoors or thru a filter."

Dennis also offers the following:
"Buy a range hood for $19.95 from Home Depot. Attach a 16" deep shelf 30" above your work table and attach the range hood under that shelf (flush to the front of the shelf). Open the window and install a piece of plywood in the opening. Cut a hole in that plywood and run flexible ducting from the range hood to that hole.
You can just vent direct to outdoors, or if you're environmentally concerned, install a small HEPA filter anywhere along the ducting.
This installation will extract almost all the fumes."

With all this said, after much investigation, I've selected the following systems to use in my own studio:

The following is excerpted from an online site discussing  Lead Alert Facts:

Unless handled carefully, lead came and solders used in stained glass and lead lighting can be a health hazard if lead dust is swallowed or inhaled.

Working with stained glass and lead lighting often involves contact with lead fumes and dust. Any amount of lead fumes or dust is hazardous to your health.

Lead fumes occur when the solder is melted, and operating the soldering iron at very high temperatures releases more fumes than at lower temperatures. 

Lead dust can be generated from sawing old frames. The plaster and fillings around the glass are also a health hazard as they might have absorbed lead over the years. Be careful if you restore old stained glass windows because over time lead came oxidizes, causing a white powdery coating that rubs off very easily. This powder can be inhaled.  It also sticks to hands, clothes and tools. 

Sawing came can also create lead dust. To lessen the spread of lead dust from cutting old came, wet them down before taking apart the old lead-light items, or use alternative methods such as cutting with a sharp knife or tin snips. 

Because stained glass work involves direct contact with lead, pregnant women are strongly advised to stay away from stained glass activities, not only until the baby is born but also until they have finished breast-feeding. 

It is also essential to keep young children away from working areas, work clothes, supplies and equipment.   Store supplies that contain lead away from children and mark the labels with safety information.   Cases of lead poisoning have occurred when children have picked up lead particles from their parents’ clothes and cars. 

Don't eat or smoke in the work area.   Don't work on the kitchen or dining room table.  It is particularly dangerous because these are the very surfaces that you would not want to have contaminated with lead.   Set up in a separate work area. 

Be extra careful to wash work clothes separately from the family wash. You should also shower and wash your hair as soon as possible after finishing work. 

In your work area - Try to prevent the production of lead dust whenever you are working with stained glass and lead lighting. 

Always ensure workrooms can be: 
-adequately ventilated if you are dealing with solvents, but contained to prevent the spreading of lead dust 
-easily cleaned, this means that working on carpets is not recommended. Plastic sheeting, or newspaper for very small quick jobs, is much safer. 

Wear protective clothing and eye protection at all times.   Wash clothes separately from the family wash, and shower and wash your hair as soon as possible after your work. 

Regularly clean all surfaces in the work area by wet dusting or mopping, not dry brushing or sweeping. 

Tools and equipment should be cleaned by wet sponging, not dusting.   Clean walls and windows at least monthly. Use sugar soap, which can be bought from hardware stores, or tri-sodium phosphate (TSP) from an industrial-cleaner stockist. TSP should be mixed at the ratio of at least 25g of 5% TSP to each five litres of hot water. 

Vacuum only with cleaners equipped with HEPA (High Efficiency Particulate Air) filters to remove fine lead dust from the workroom. Wet mopping is the next best alternative if a vacuum cleaner fitted with a HEPA filter is unavailable. 

Any cloths and other cleaning equipment used should not be used for cleaning anywhere else, otherwise you could easily contaminate other parts of the house. 

Dispose of waste properly.  Waste materials containing lead, including water contaminated by wet mopping, should be disposed of according to State/Territory or local government regulations.   The water should be placed in a strong, securely sealed container. Do not pour water down drains or onto the garden.