Determine the basic design

	Having an idea of the pattern desired,  and colors, if possible, will reduce design time fees.  If you have an idea of what you want or you select a pre-existing pattern (versus us creating a completely custom one for you) the design fees may only be 1-2 hours.   When developing the initial design concept, the best design can be produced by incorporating the ideas from your input. This can include: Motifs from fabric samples or wallpaper swatches. You can verbalize a description, put a description into a text document, sketch something up, take a photo, find something similar, or offer a picture from a magazine or from the internet.
	Other sources from which a design may be selected are: Wide variety of design books Thousands of pre-designed patterns available from many different companies. We can scan pictures and designs and transfer them to your computer for review A CD containing a number of design varieties is available to out of town clients for review.
	Foil or lead, or a combination of both, is discussed. The copper foil technique, method made popular by L.C. Tiffany at the turn of the century, involves wrapping the pieces of glass with copper foil and soldering them together along the length of the seams. Copper foil can be used as an alternative to lead in any instance at the personal preference of the user. It is much stronger than lead when soldered, needs no putty, is waterproof, and allows you to do intricately detailed projects where the bulky look and weight of lead would detract from the aesthetics of a delicate design. The process of interlocking and assembling pieces of glass together using lead came is called "leading".
	Reinforcement needs are considered and discussed. A general rule of thumb is to reinforce panels over three square feet.  The pattern is marked for placement of reinforcing bars or strip as reminders of their location during cutting and construction. Reinforcing should be added horizontally approximately every 12 to 18 inches to keep the window from sagging or buckling from the pull of gravity.
	Options for incorporating bevels, bevel clusters, specifically textured glass, rondels, nuggets,  jewels,  agates, crystals, shells or polished stones into the design are discussed.

Design Fees:

	I can translate most photographs, pictures and even customers' sketches into workable stained glass panel patterns.
	Graphic design services for custom patterns: $35 per hour (minimum 1 hour; average 3-5 hours)
	If you are looking at a completely custom window over 3 foot square, expect a design fee of approx. $100 - $250 - depending on the number of design hours and the number of changes.

Complete preliminary drawings

	The design will be generated or transferred into a special software program made special for the stained glass industry.  This will allow us to put your selected glass colors into the design and generate a .jpg file to e-mail to you or print out for you to review.
	A "client page" is created at this point in order to begin an easier review of design options. Click here  to view a client page.
	Glass Selection - Once a design has been arrived at, it is time to begin the glass selection process. Glass colors and textures can be chosen from a wide range of choices, depending on what seems most appropriate for the design.  Glass is carefully selected for maximum brilliance, transmission of light, and markings (streaks and blends). Clicking this Glass Selection link will allow you to view major glass manufacturing companies that provide you with all of the glass possibilities for glass types and colors selection .
	Fine tuning of the design Adjustments are made to customer's specifications, refining pattern to final design. Preparation is made to finalize customer design proposal. Using the types of glass and size of the project I will calculate the cost and come up with a quote

Finalize design

	Several design options are presented for final approval,  along with sample glass pieces indicative of the colors and textures.
	Once it is approved, we request a 50% deposit before production begins.

Glass is ordered.

A duplicate pattern is made to use during assembly.

Pattern pieces are numbered and cut.

Specialized pattern cutting scissors are used specific to either foil or lead construction.

Cut pattern pieces are strategically placed over glass, with special consideration as to the piece color and direction of the glass (if  other than a solid color) so that the final color lines and shadows of the project flow in perspective  to  each other throughout  the piece.

Glass is cut.

Difficult and intricate glass shapes can be cut using a diamond glass band saw.

The rough glass edges are ground smooth using a spinning diamond bit glass grinder.

Assembly

	If your panel is leaded,  The zinc border is measured to specification of the design dimensions in preparation for window assembly. Before lead came is used, it is "stretched".  Stretching removes the kinks, straightens the lead, and makes it more rigid. Each glass piece is placed within the window design.   The lead is cut to fit precisely around each piece of glass.  As the pieces of glass and lead are fitted together they are held temporarily with horseshoe nails until the whole panel is assembled and soldering can begin. All the joints between the pieces of lead and the points where they connect to the zinc frame are scrubbed with a wire brush to remove oxidation.  They are then fluxed and soldered on the front side.  The panel is then turned over this procedure is repeated on the reverse side. At this time, any reinforcement issues would be addressed, if necessary. A general rule of thumb is to reinforce panels over three square feet.  The pattern is marked for placement of reinforcing bars as reminders of their location during cutting and construction. Reinforcing should be added horizontally approximately every 12 to 18 inches to keep the window from sagging or buckling from the pull of gravity.    After regular soldering is completed, the reinforcing bar is mounted as one continuous pieces from left side to the right.  The bar is soldered directly to the back of the window to all of the seams or joints that it passes over.  The bar is preheated at the point where it will be soldered to the seam to help the solder form a good bond with the bar;  then solder directly to the seam on the panel.  It is also soldered to the edging around the window.   If the window will be inserted into a wooden frame,  the back of the frame is notched so that the reinforcing bar will fit into it.  This will also add extra support to the window. The next process of applying cement or putty is necessary in lead came constructions in order to secure the glass in the channels and prevent them from rattling, making the panel more sturdy.  This process also weather proofs the panel. Cement is thoroughly mixed. Using a natural bristle brush, the cement is forced under the faces of the cames, working perpendicular to them. The process is repeated on the other side, making sure the cement is worked under all cames and edging. Whiting powder is sprinkled over the entire panel.  Whiting is used to absorb and remove excess cement and start the curing process. Using a natural bristle brush,  the whiting is rubbed over the entire panel, working parallel to the came.  This will remove excess cement and clean the panel. This process is repeated on the other side, using a fid to clean cement from the corners.  The panel is allowed to dry flat for 24 to 48 hours, checking for cement that may have seeped out and remove with the fid. The panel receives its final scrub, trim and clean up. Brushing the lead came with a bristle brush gives it a lovely natural dark grey patina. However, if a black finish is preferred then a chemical patina can be applied to achieve this.
	If your panel is foiled, Each ground piece of glass is thoroughly washed and dried in order to prepare the edges for proper adhesion when wrapping it with the copper foil strips. The edges of each glass piece is wrapped with copper foil.  This adhesive-backed metallic tape acts as the connection medium when soldering the pieces of the panel together.  The foil is crimped and burnished  flat onto the glass edges with a lathekin. The foiled glass pieces are laid out over the assembly pattern, squared, & held in place by pins on a homosote board. At this time, any reinforcement issues would be addressed, if necessary. A general rule of thumb is to reinforce panels over three square feet.  The pattern is marked for placement of reinforcing  strips as reminders of their location during cutting and construction. Reinforcing should be added horizontally approximately every 12 to 18 inches to keep the window from sagging or buckling from the pull of gravity. Once all of the pieces are in place and the panel is squared to the specification of the design dimensions, flux is applied to connection points throughout the panel and the panel is "tack soldered."  This is a process where I melt just enough solder onto each joint to hold the pieces firmly together so that they will not slip or slide apart during the soldering process. Flux is then applied to the seams and the entire front of the panel is soldered.  The final soldering step is called "beading."   This process involves building up the solder to a uniformly rounded bead along all the seams.   The panel is turned over and all of the seams are soldered on its reverse side, incorporating the "beading" as on the front side. The panel is then framed with zinc.
	The entire work is thoroughly cleaned, free of soldering and flux residues.
	Solder and lead change color naturally over time.  My studio typically will give your panel a more "weathered" appearance by applying a dark patina finish over the solder lines and zinc frame.
	The final step is to carefully clean the entire piece, then add a sparkling high gloss polish to seal everything and make the piece shine. Finishing compounds (or wax) are the final step to completing your stained glass project. They polish the glass and solder while helping to prevent oxidation.

Hanging Panels

	If you are not going to add an additional wood frame to your panel, solid brass hangers will be inserted into the upper corners of your panel and securely soldered into place.
	If your panel is to be framed in wood, the frame will be added at this time. Compliant with your personal taste hanging hardware can be attached to your wood frame in the form of a  brass pivot hanger or a more decorative brass leaf hanger.